Wine of the Week: A Swiss Pinot Noir
The Adank Pinot Noir defies categorization, at once delicate and deliberate
2023 Adank Pinot Noir - $44 (note: we purchased this wine via Fass Selections, which periodically puts out great offers for Adank’s wines; one-off bottles of the 2022s are also available from Archetyp)
Pair with: red wine-friendly fish dishes, such as grilled snapper with a tomato remoulade, or tuna carpaccio
Sometimes with Pinot Noir it seems like we’re only operating at two speeds, either venerating the woodsy, mushroom-y Burgundies of yore, or making a case for the jammy, plummy Pinot Noirs of the Anthropocene age New World. Now enter Swiss Pinot Noir. We’ve talked before about how the Alpine terroir seems to give new identities to grapes we thought we knew, whether it’s Grüner Veltliner or Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir is no exception.
From the canton of Graubünden in northeast Switzerland, the Adank Pinot Noir defies categorization, at once delicate and deliberate. The aromas are of a fresh garden bouquet, while the palate recalls less the red fruits themselves and more their juices staining the cartons of fresh raspberries and cherries, along with crushed rose petals and a crackle of white pepper to suspend the finish. It’s a Pinot Noir of almost unparalleled freshness, and in the spirit of challenging expectations, it’s a great candidate for breaking the old “white wine and fish” pairing rule.
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