Wine of the Week: Nebbiolo-based Rosé

This rosato from Proprietà Sperino in Alto Piemonte is a master of disguise

2024 Proprietà Sperino “Rosa del Rosa” Rosato - $28

Pair with: Pastas with creamy tomato sauces, such as penne alla vodka

As far as wine drinking goes, summers are invariably awash in seashell-tinted rosés, often advertised as “dry” and “mineral,” and just as often presenting as watery and boring. But call this rosato from Proprietà Sperino in Alto Piemonte a master of disguise, for despite its pale pink hue, the wine itself is surprisingly layered and nuanced. Elegant peony aromas give way to tangier flavors such as freshly-picked raspberries and pink grapefruit, as well as a mineral component that recalls rock salt over more conventional “minerality;” the palate is lavish and not uptight.

We’re big fans of Nebbiolo-based rosés for their atypical flavors, and the effect here is appealingly subtle, making for a wine that’s low-fuss but more than earns its place at the dinner table.