Five Questions With: Stephan Reinhardt
"Who of us hedonists and alpinists would rather be academics at that moment?"
Five Questions With is an on-going series where we discover unique wine and cultural recommendations from incredible people. This week we’re sitting down with Stephan Reinhardt, a highly regarded critic who writes about wines from Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Alsace for Wine Advocate. Stephan is also a wine columnist for the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung.
His book The Finest Wines of Germany was published in 2012 and was shortlisted as the "Best International Wine Book of the Year." Together with Stuart Pigott and others, he published Wein spricht deutsch in 2007, a large-format 700-page work in German on the best wines and winemakers from German-speaking countries. Stephan has lived near Hamburg in northern Germany for over 20 years.
Do you have a bottle recommendation for a wine from the Alps?
Far too many to be able to give a specific recommendation here and now. But as I'm very spontaneous, I'll name the wine that's causing me great delight right now. I was just tasting it when the question came in and I would even take a bath in it. It comes from Liechtenstein and it's the 2022 Pinot Noir Torkel Landwein from Weinbau Hoop. It embodies everything an Alpine Pinot should have: clarity, freshness, fine wild berry flavours, juicy elegance and stimulating nervousness. It is neither dark nor light in colour, neither heavy nor light on the palate, but irresistible. This is what the Alps are like: majestic in the background but playful and sensual as long as you don't have to climb the rock faces and are content with the flowering meadow.
What is your favorite Alpine food and wine pairing?
To be honest, it depends on where I am or what I've done before. A hike? A dip in the Weissensee (Carinthia)? A swim in the Aare river in Bern? A wine tasting? A city trip? But what always wins me over is a Valais raclette with Fendant (Chasselas). There is a restaurant in Sierre, Château de Villa, which offers raclette from more than 25 producers or mountain pastures. The best thing to do there is to order the menu with five different courses (= cheeses) and, if you're particularly crazy, taste at least five different Fendants to find the best pairing. But who of us hedonists and alpinists would rather be academics at that moment?
If you could visit any town or region in the Alps, what is it and why?
I can visit every Alpine region whenever my time allows. I haven't climbed every peak yet to be able to announce my favourite place. But there are at least two. Lech am Arlberg in summer (even if some top restaurants are closed then; but if many people follow this tip in future, that will certainly change) and the Weissensee in Carinthia. A deep, cold mountain lake that is so deep and turquoise that you might think it's a forgery. What is made of it in the Forelle restaurant in Techendorf/Weissensee makes the lake a little paradise for me. I also love swimming in its almost ice cool water. The turquoise colour is due to the lime soil. Everything here is white if it is not turquoise or green (meadows, forests). Of course, we should drink a Burgundy here. It doesn't matter whether it comes from France or Switzerland, but of course, it is best if it comes from Switzerland. Then it has the freshness and coolness that best suits the lake and its fish.
On mountain or après?
On mountain!
What is a piece of art (painting, book, music, movie etc) that best expresses the Alps for you?
If I want to praise the majesty of the Alps and make myself feel very small and reverent, then of course only Richard Strauss' Alpensinfonie (An Alpine Symphony) will do. Apart from that, however, I like it more playful or even quirky: the music of the fabulous Erika Stucky and, of course, Sophie Hunger, at least when she sings in Swiss German. She recently did this in Hamburg's Elbphilharmonie with a large orchestra. Particularly touching: Walzer für Niemand (Waltz for Nobody). This is also the title of Sophie‘s first book. A small masterpiece - and of course unthinkable without the Alps. So far it has only been published in German, though, and just recently. More fine Alpine Music: Hubert von Goisern: Derweil (1999) and, of course, the Austrian cult parody of the mountain farmer drama: Der Watzmann (A Rustical) by Wolfgang Ambros, Manfred Tauchen and Joesi Prokopetz (1974). A more culinary book tip: Das kulinarische Erbe der Alpen (The culinary heritage of the Alps). By Dominik Flammer and Sylvan Müller (2012).
To stay in touch with Stephan’s work, follow along at Wine Advocate.
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Wonderful impressions and suggestions from a true pro of Alpine wines!